The 32 nd edition of the Academy of Ancient Wines ( May 2019).
It was my third participation of the Academy of Ancient Wines. I especially came in Paris for this event.
For this edition I decided to bring :
– A very old Magnum Champagne of « Cordon rouge » from Mumm. It has no vintage written but the style of the label is an indication and with it, it is possible to deduce that it is a bottle from the sixties.
– 1960 of Château Cos d’ Estournel, 2nd Grand Cru Classé 1855 from the Saint-Estephe appellation.
I was present during the opening of the bottles, a very organized and delicate moment with the regular staff of the Academy !
The Champagnes :
Champagnes :
– Champagne Colin Cuvée Castille Cuvée Castille blanc de blancs without vintage:
A very nice beginning with some very fine bubbles, and very evolved notes of brioche. Complex and tasty.
– Champagne Brut Taittinger. Approximately period : 1980 (Jeroboam):
Unfortunately this Champagne was not really present during the event. It needed time. No bubbles, it was not open during the aperitif but interesting for some wine pairing during the dinner.
The dinner :
Champagne Cordon Rouge Mumm approximately 1960 (Magnum)
– Champagne Cordon Rouge Mumm. Approximately period: 1960 (Magnum) :
Beautiful nose, focused on apples. A lot of freshness on the palate evoking softness but also complexity with some notes of briochs and forest floor. With few bubbles it was interesting and pleasant during this event.
Château Magence Blanc 1959 Appellation Graves
– Château Magence 1959 (white). Graves
A very mineral, deep and attractive nose. There are some notes of apples at different scales of evolution: some part are oxidized, other part no. The length is light and complexified by some touch of white pepper and and a slight gas note. Perfect choice for beginning the meal !
Pouilly Fuissé Julien Damoy 1947
– Pouilly Fuissé Julien Damoy 1947
Low intensity on the nose but very beautiful complexity on the palate. Beautiful notes of butter, honey and apples.
Kebir Imperial F.LUNG blanc 1930 périod (Algérie)
– Kebir Imperial F.LUNG blanc. Period :1930 (Algeria)
Very deep on the nose that is beautiful. On the palate it is a little bit austere but stays beautiful. This wine is a complex partition of stone fruits, honey, almond paste. The blend is easily enjoyable.
Château Moulin Haut Laroque 1964. Appellation Côtes de Fronsac
-Château Moulin Haut Laroque 1964. Côtes de Fronsac appellation
An incredible wine with huge freshness. Nothing in this wine allows to identify its age. It is absolutely incredible the wine is perfectly conditioned ! The nose is not very intense but such an explosion on the palate : red fruits, violets, blackcurrant… We are on the expression of fruits, of the fresh fruits ! The Academician who brought this bottle is very happy and he can be. Its wine pushes the codes. It is fifty five years old wine but it is still young !
Château Cos d’Estournel 1960. Appellation Saint-Estephe
– Château Cos d’Estournel 1960. Saint-Estephe appellation
A difficult moment for me and my wine. After a nice feeling during the opening of the bottle, the wine was not really great during the dinner. With a slightly hazy appearance, the beginning of the first inspiration was magnificent before leaving very quickly on a register unfortunately unpleasant. Like a 45-lap disc that goes on, hums beautiful notes… and suddenly the reading arm slips ! The finale had an interesting part and raised this wine. It was possible to felt that there was a real structure of a great wine. Opening such bottles always carries a risk, it is the game and I have no regrets ! Thank you to the academicians who tried to go in the direction of wine despite a not very engaging part.
Château Cabrières 1971. Appellation Châteauneuf-du-pape
– Château Cabrières 1971. Châteauneuf-du-pape appellation
A lot of freshness in this wine. A slight unpleasant note occurred in the nose but next to this, beautiful things were expressed: some notes of dried flowers, black fruits. On the palate it was really enjoyable and the texture of a good quality. The finish had this same unpleasant animal note. I say unpleasant because slightly more pronounced than the whole. The same animal note but more integrated to the blend would have been superb.
Minuto riserva speciale 1964. Appellation Barolo
– Minuto riserva speciale 1964. Barolo
A wine with strong menthol notes, can be a little bit too powerful?A rather impressive wine whose lighter texture offered an interesting contrast that did not fail to create some emulation at table.
Marchesi di Barolo 1961. Appellation Barolo
– Marchesi di Barolo 1961
Notes of dried mint identifiable to the nose. Beautiful red and black fruits on the palate. The finish is complex with a bouquet of herbs: fresh, dried and some distinctive notes of mint. This wine offers a sensation of freshness and takes dimension during the tasting. Really difficult to guess its age. Wonderful!
Royal Kebir F.LUNG 1940 (Algérie)
– Royal Kebir F.LUNG 1940 (Algéria)
Clovis Lefevre 1959. Appellation Vouvray
A perfect balanced wine. Turned on the fruits with apricots and peaches. Great quality on the palate. Balanced and expressive at the same time. Very beautiful.
G.M Dumons et Cie 1943. Appellation Sainte Croix du Mont
– G.M Dumons et Cie 1943. Sainte Croix du Mont appellation
This wine is turned on dried apricots. Very well balanced. Floral, mineral and fruity at the same time. This wine has no age and I would like this bottle has no end. So divine. #nectarofgods !
Tokaji Aszu escenzia 1988
– Tokaji Aszu escenzia 1988
The famous wine whose legend it is that Francois Audouze, the bearer of this bottle, would have a palett of it at home! (this Tokaji is found on every table at every edition of the Academy that I have been able to make). This wine remains constant from editions to editions, and gradually becomes a landmark for me. I could compare it to Francois Audouze himself: colorful, complex and generous. So I hope to be able to regouter this wine for a long time yet! (For another description of this wine go to see my articles from editions 30 and 31. Links bellow).
Marc Blanc, domaine d’OTT 1929
– Marc Blanc 1929. Domaine d’OTT
Excellent structure, lots of power. To be honest too powerful for me after such an evening. I especially appreciated this Marc by the freshness of the herbaceous aromas on the nose.
The other wines of the dinner :
Here are the other wines that I had the chance to taste during this crazy event :
Château Palmer 1975, appellation Margaux
– Château Palmer 1975. Margaux
Fresh and deep in the nose. With a beautiful texture on the palate, Margaux’s elegance is expressed and intensified as the aromas reveal themselves. Black fruit mixed with dried red fruits, fine notes of Kirsch mixed with spicy, even smoky notes. Truffles.The finish is long with a huge dimension of smoke. Magic!
Royal kebir 1947 (Algéria)
– Royal kebir 1947 (Algéria)
Impressive balance and freshness, sublime complexity with a beautiful texture in the mouth. On complex notes of black fruits, coffee, dried red fruits. all in great length. This wine is exceptional by its balance and its texture.
Côtes de Beaune, Bouchard Ainé Père et fils 1923
– Bouchard Ainé Père et fils 1923. Côtes de Beaune
Very smoky nose. Superb and elegant on the palate! This Côtes de Beaune 1923 is not its age. It is superb of freshness and elegance and its length is endless. On notes of red fruits, spices. A monument, a favorite one!
Château Boucaut 1986 (white). Appellation Graves
– Château Bouscaut 1986 (white). Appellation Graves
Freshness and exoticism. Sauvignon transcends itself into complexity inviting to relaxation and meditation. On notes of lemon and a thin presence of grapefruit, we find apples and even a light smoky side. Very beautiful.
Thank you !
Thanks to Francois Audouze for this incredible event, thanks to Brigitte for the quality of her help, thanks to all the Academicians for their contributions. Always great quality. Thanks to the Lung family for their presence. We were all able to appreciate the quality of your family’s wines. They challenge with the greatest!
See you at the next edition I hope.
Xavier LACOMBE
Links:
– The article of Francois Audouze (table 1) is available by clicking here.
– My old articles about the other editions : The 31 th edition is available by clicking here. The 30 th edition is available by clicking here.
